If your Logitech G25, G27, G29, G920 or G923 pedals are not working properly, don’t assume straight away that you need to replace the pedals.
Flickering or jumping pedal inputs, pedals that won’t return to zero, pedals that reach 100% too early, and pedals that stop responding can often be traced to a problem with either the potentiometers or the wiring.
This guide takes you through some simple checks to help find the cause.
Common Logitech pedal problems
Typical symptoms include:
- Accelerator, brake or clutch flickering or jumping
- A pedal not returning fully to 0%
- A pedal reaching 100% before it is fully pressed
- A pedal stuck at 0% or 100%
- A pedal occasionally cutting out
- Pressing one pedal causing another pedal to register
- One pedal not working at all
- Two or all three pedals not working correctly
Although some of these symptoms are commonly associated with worn or dirty potentiometers, don’t replace a potentiometer based on the symptom alone.
A damaged wire or poor electrical connection can produce very similar behaviour.
1. Check the pedal connection
Start with the simplest thing.
Check that the pedal cable is properly connected to the wheel base. Disconnect it, inspect the connector and then plug it back in securely.
If the connector wasn’t fully inserted, this may be all that is required.
[PHOTO – pedal connector / connection to wheel]
2. Restart the wheel, PC or console
Before dismantling anything, completely restart the system.
Disconnect the wheel from both USB and power, then restart your PC or console.
Reconnect the wheel and test the pedals again.
This is particularly worthwhile when using the pedals on a PC, where software or driver problems can sometimes look like a pedal hardware fault.
3. Inspect the pedal cable
Check the complete cable between the pedals and the wheel.
Look for:
- Cuts or damaged insulation
- Crushed sections
- Sharp bends or kinks
- Signs that the cable has been pulled
- Damage from chair wheels
- Damage caused by folding racing seats or simulator frames
- Pet damage
Pay particular attention to the point where the cable enters the pedal housing.
This is an important area to inspect because the cable can become trapped between the pedal housing and the floor, wall or simulator frame.
[PHOTO – cable entry point]
A cable can also be damaged internally without obvious damage to the outside, so a cable that looks good isn’t necessarily electrically good.
4. Look at what the pedals are actually doing
Test all three pedals and take note of exactly what happens.
Don’t just concentrate on the pedal that you originally noticed was faulty.
Press the accelerator, brake and clutch separately and watch the pedal outputs.
You are looking for things such as:
- Does each pedal move smoothly from 0% to 100%?
- Does it return completely to 0% when released?
- Does it reach 100% too early?
- Does the output jump or flicker?
- Does the output disappear occasionally?
- Does pressing one pedal make another pedal move?
Knowing exactly which pedals are affected makes the next stage much easier.
[PHOTO / SCREENSHOT – normal pedal outputs]
PC users: be careful when diagnosing pedal faults
If you use your Logitech wheel on a PC, software can sometimes make troubleshooting more complicated.
Logitech G HUB is useful, but what you see in software isn’t always enough to determine whether the pedals themselves have a hardware fault.
If you have access to a compatible PlayStation or Xbox console, depending on your wheel model, testing the wheel and pedals on the console can be a useful way of removing PC software from the equation.
If you don’t have access to a console, you can still continue troubleshooting on the PC, but bear in mind that software can sometimes make the results less clear.
Potentiometer or wiring?
Inside a standard set of Logitech pedals, each pedal uses a potentiometer to turn the movement of your foot into an electrical signal.
There is also a wiring loom connecting the three pedal potentiometers to the wheel.
Both can cause pedal problems.
A faulty potentiometer can cause erratic or incorrect pedal output.
Damaged or high-resistance wiring can also cause erratic or incorrect pedal output.
This is why simply seeing a flickering accelerator, for example, isn’t enough to conclude that the accelerator potentiometer needs replacing.
We need to find out whether the fault belongs to the pedal unit or to the wiring connected to it.
The pedal swap test
One of the simplest ways to do this without specialist test equipment is a pedal swap test.
The Logitech pedal set contains three separate pedal units:
- Accelerator
- Brake
- Clutch
They can be physically swapped inside the pedal housing for diagnostic purposes.
For example, if the accelerator appears to be faulty, the accelerator pedal unit can be swapped with a pedal unit that is working correctly.
You then test the pedals again.
If the fault moves with the pedal unit
If the problem follows the pedal unit to its new position, the fault is likely to be associated with that pedal unit or its potentiometer.
If the fault stays in the same position
If the problem remains associated with the original accelerator, brake or clutch connection after the pedal units have been swapped, the wiring is the more likely cause.
This makes the swap test a useful way of separating Logitech pedal potentiometer faults from pedal wiring faults without immediately replacing parts.
[PHOTO – two pedal units being swapped]
Don’t swap two faulty pedals
For the test to be useful, you need to swap a faulty pedal with one that appears to be working correctly.
If two pedals have problems, use the remaining good pedal for the test.
If all three pedals are faulty, a swap test is much less useful. A common wiring problem becomes more likely and testing the wiring with a multimeter is the better next step.
What’s involved in swapping the pedals?
To swap the pedal units you will need to open the pedal housing.
The basic process is:
- Remove the foot pads.
- Turn the pedal assembly over.
- Remove the screws securing the bottom cover.
- Carefully lift the bottom cover away.
- Identify the pedal units and their wiring.
- Disconnect the appropriate potentiometer connections.
- Remove and swap the complete pedal units.
- Reconnect them.
- Test the pedals and see whether the fault has moved.
Do not pull the potentiometer connectors off by pulling on the wires. Use suitable pliers to carefully remove the spade connectors themselves.
We have a separate detailed Logitech pedal swap test guide explaining this procedure step by step.
[PHOTO – pedals with bottom cover removed]
Testing Logitech pedal wiring with a multimeter
If the swap test points towards the wiring, or the results aren’t clear, the next step is to electrically test the pedal wiring.
A basic multimeter can be used to check the continuity and resistance of the individual wires.
This can find faults that aren’t visible from the outside, including partially broken wires and poor connections.
See our Logitech pedal wiring test with a multimeter for the full procedure.
Should I clean the original Logitech potentiometers?
Cleaning a dirty potentiometer can sometimes temporarily improve its operation.
However, if you are trying to diagnose a fault, it is better to establish whether the problem is actually with the potentiometer or the wiring first.
Otherwise, you can easily end up cleaning or replacing a potentiometer when the real problem is elsewhere.
Finding the fault before buying parts
The most important part of Logitech pedal troubleshooting is to avoid guessing.
A pedal that flickers doesn’t automatically need a new potentiometer.
A pedal stuck at 0% or 100% doesn’t automatically mean the potentiometer has failed.
And a pedal cable that looks perfectly good from the outside isn’t necessarily electrically sound.
A sensible diagnostic sequence is:
Check connections → restart the system → inspect the cable → identify which pedals are affected → perform a pedal swap test → test the wiring with a multimeter if necessary.
Once you know where the fault is, you can repair the pedals rather than simply replacing parts and hoping for the best.
Logitech pedal repair
The Logitech G25, G27, G29, G920 and G923 pedal assemblies are relatively simple devices, and many faults can be repaired.
At AXC SIM we manufacture replacement parts and upgrades for Logitech pedals, including replacement potentiometers and pedal wiring looms.
More importantly, we recommend finding the cause of the problem before ordering a replacement part.
If you’re unsure what your test results mean, contact us and tell us:
- Which Logitech wheel you have
- Whether you’re using a PC, PlayStation or Xbox
- Which pedal or pedals are affected
- What the pedal output is doing
- What happened when you performed the swap test
We’ll help you work out the most likely cause.
